Izakaya Sakai
A basement izakaya in the heart of the village, loved by locals and visitors alike. The grilled hokke gets singled out again and again. Book ahead.
Where to eat
Three very different places to eat within a short drive: the lively lanes of Nozawa Onsen, the old castle town of Iiyama, and the soba kitchens of Togari.
Nozawa Onsen · 10 minutes' drive
More than fifty restaurants, izakaya and bars packed into a few walkable streets. In winter, and especially January, book the popular places a few days ahead.
A basement izakaya in the heart of the village, loved by locals and visitors alike. The grilled hokke gets singled out again and again. Book ahead.
A traditional local izakaya tucked under the Tokiwaya ryokan, right beside the Ō-yu bathhouse. Soak first, eat after.
The village's standout sushi counter, using rice grown locally in Nozawa's own water.
A smarter, higher-end sushi experience in the middle of the village, for a special night out.
Family-run and often called the best noodles in the village. Only two people run it, so be ready to wait.
Soba made the local way, bound with oyama-bokuchi (mountain burdock) for a firm, springy bite.
The village's go-to ramen shop, with gyoza that some call the best in town.
A long-running favourite for an easy lunch or a break from Japanese food. One of the highest-rated spots in the village.
A casual, good-value diner for set meals, curry and katsu.
Grill-it-yourself Japanese barbecue, good for groups after a cold day.
A newer arrival cooking over an open fire.
Gin and whisky made in the centre of the village, with a tasting bar. Nearby Libushi pours locally brewed craft beer.
Street snacks: don't leave without trying a steamed onsen manju, a hot oyaki dumpling stuffed with nozawana, or a pork bun from the stalls along the main street.
Iiyama town · a short drive
Quieter than Nozawa and aimed at locals, which is the appeal. Many places are lunch-only or close midweek, so check before you set out.
The place to try Iiyama's regional cooking and soba in one sitting. Near Iiyama Station, open for lunch and dinner.
Firm, hand-cut Tomikura soba in the mountain hamlet it comes from. Lunch only, and closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
Over a hundred years old and famous for huge portions of Chinese-style noodles and katsudon. Daytime only, closed Wednesday.
100% buckwheat soba on the Honmachi shopping street, near the station.
A specialist grilled-eel restaurant in town.
Iiyama's favourite cake shop, with a café for parfaits and waffles. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
Inside the Hana-no-Eki Chikumagawa roadside station: breakfast, lunch and local sweets, next to a farm shop that is good for stocking the kitchen.
Togari · 5 minutes' drive
Togari is small and most dining is in family inns, but its soba is some of the best in the region.
100% buckwheat soba bound with oyama-bokuchi, plus a miso pork bowl made with local Miyuki pork. Lunch only, closed Monday.
Hand-made soba from northern Shinshu buckwheat. Reservation only, for lunch and early dinner.
A change of pace: a relaxed restaurant serving Asian dishes.
Slope-side lunch spots in winter that are better than you'd expect from a ski-hill canteen.
Lawson is 1 km from the house and 7-Eleven 2 km, for quick eats on the go: hot coffee, onigiri, sandwiches, fried chicken and a decent breakfast on the way to first lifts. A service station is close by too, for easy fuel top-ups.
Hotpot inside a snow hut at Shinanodaira, a few minutes from the house. Runs late January to late February; reservations needed.
What to order
Iiyama's own soba, bound with mountain burdock fibre instead of wheat for a firm, glossy noodle.
Sushi rice topped with mountain vegetables, walnuts and egg, served on a bamboo leaf.
The pickled greens that carry the village's name, eaten with everything.
Steamed or grilled dumplings stuffed with vegetables, a Nagano staple.
Iiyama's local brand of pork, at its best in a miso pork bowl or tonkatsu.
A miso hotpot of local vegetables and mushrooms, the dish served in the snow huts.
Eggs slow-cooked in Nozawa's hot-spring water.
Iiyama's retro sponge-and-cream sweet, sold at bakeries and the roadside station.
Opening days and hours change with the season, and many small places close without notice. Phone ahead or ask us for current favourites when you book.
The house has its own kitchen and dining room, and the valley's farm shops are a short drive away.
Check dates & enquire